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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.